We spent a couple of days on CarloForte. We had been before with our friend Massimo, but that time by ferry and only for a couple of hours. This time was a very different experience and we felt relaxed in the charming atmosphere of the seafront cafes and resturants. We were recommended a lovely resturant “ Torro di Corsa “, where I treated Ed to another meal for the use of Arctura and a wonderful Oddesey around the Mediterranean. The resturant specialises in Tuna dishes, using all the different parts of this wonderful fish, including the heart, stomach and of course the finest fillets.

 

We then progressed south east and towards a very beautiful anchorage, Porto Zafferano. It’s very sheltered and being in a military zone we were the only yacht in the bay. The only other activity was a small fishing boat casting its nets across the bay, we must have gone over them as we came in as later in the evening we could see him gathering them in with the catch of the day.

 

 

We set sail for the island of Isola di Mal di Ventre ( Upset stomach island ), so called because of the sailor sailing its shore complained of sea sickness due to the rough weather around its shores. Apparently this island was declared and Independant state by an Italian truck driver, who wrote to Berlusconi and the UN asking for independence. He was eventually jailed for 4 million Euros tax evasion. Whilst jailed he went on hunger strike, protesting political asylum and after 2 month, subsequently died.

The island itself is barren and desolate. We anchored up next to a French yacht. They probably wern’t expecting anyone else to join them.

 

 

After a reasonably restful night, we set our sails and made way for CarloForte. After an hour the wind died down to nothing and we had to start the iron maiden and engined for the next 7 hours.

Ed had an idea to try some anchorages that lay about 12nm from Carloforte. We popped our head into one called Cala Domestica, but were beaten in by a yacht motoring past us at great speed, simply to get a spot before we entered. As there was limited room within this anchorage we carried on south to the next one, Mausa, near Pan Di Zucchero. This was initially bearable, but during the cooking of our evening meal became unbearable. We scoffed our food as quickly as it would go down and having just enough time to get to CarloForte before dusk set sail in a strong breeze to the island.

As we approached the main channel to CarloForte, we came across a mass of bouys and looking through the binoculars determined what we could only describe as being Tuna nets. Totally unmarked and unlit. Avoiding these we made our way to Carloforte to a welcome by a lonely Ormagetori, which Ed had requested earlier to take our lines. The other welcome we got was thousand of mosquitos. So we managed to enter and tie up at 21:00, just before dusk and after settling down, made our way to the seafront and a local pizzeria.

And so we have arrived at Tuerredda, The first place in almost two month where we have been to before with Arctura. You could say we are in home waters. This, in my opinion is the very best anchorage on the southern coast of Sardinia. Although this time we were shooed away from Tuerredda, as we were a little close to shore, which in a way was a good thing as the beach was so crowded with people that you couldn’t see the sand. So we went to the western Bay “Cala Malfatano”. There was only one other yacht anchored in the bay and the beaches were a lot less full, with perhaps 40 or so people.

Once anchored we prepared our tender and motored ashore and went to a small, but very pleasant beach resturant for our customary spaghetti Botarga and some wine. The staff here were very welcoming and the food of high quality. By the time we had finished our lunch there were more yachts in the anchorage.

Earlier in the day we had some good news that Marta and Massimo would be joining us and sailing the 30 odd miles in their yacht. So to pass the time Ed and I explored the bay by tender and even went ashore to a small pebbled beach.

We waited and waited and had booked a restaurant for the four of us, but still no Marta and Massimo. Eventually, at about 22:00 they arrived in the bay and we guided them in with a torch. They had been delayed leaving and had wind and waves against them all the way, but we were flattered that they made the magnificent effort of joining us for just one night.

We Invited them to Arctura and we promptly made a spaghetti carbonara, which went down a treat with all, including Arba, who promptly christened Arctura after her ordeal.

After jollities and exchanges of sea passages we called it a night and it was off to bed we go. A fantastic day, with fantastic friends. Although only knowing Marta and Massimo for one year, the friendship to me feels like a lifelong one.

Tomorrow the final leg of our Mediterranean Odyssey.