We awoke to another beautiful morning on the island of Maretimmo. Massimo and I wanted to stay another day, but Alex was keen to get to the hustle a bustle of shops and restaurants so we decided hat we would head to Trapani on the Sicilian mainland, some 20 miles east. But before we did, we had another wonderful breakfast on deck and took one final walk through the village and along the coastal path. The walk, although short, provided spectacular views of the east coast and Castello Di Punta Troia.

We eventually slipped lines at 1100 and with no wind, motored to Trapani and the Marina “Vento di Maestrale”. I had stayed here before a few years ago when I visited with Ed.

The passage was uneventful when we were 500 metres from the harbour entrance announced our intentions to Trapani VTS on channel 10. Soon after we called the marina on channel 74 and within minutes were greeted by a rib describing how to enter and find our berth, great service. We reversed into our berth and by 1615 were snuggly in our new home, connected to water and electricity for the first time in 3 days, not to mention very decent WiFi connections at good speed. The office was closed, so we relaxed before heading into the city in the evening for a well deserved pizza at “Pizzaria Calvino”, apparently the oldest in Trapani.

On our way to the pizzeria, we walked along the city sea walls and ramparts and popped into a few shops and bakeries. We stopped at a fantastic ceramic and pottery shop called ” Ceramiche Perone”, to buy gifts for Marta and I was surprised to receive a gift myself from my very good friend Massimo. The shop is fantastic, full of wonderful hand made items. Some are even made on the premises.

Massimo talking to the owner, who’s proudly showing family photos of the business

Then another quick stop to a fantastic Sicilian party shop “Panificio Oddo Michiele”, to buy some fantastic Cannoli.

Finally, we arrived are “Pizzeria Calvino”, for the long awaited of fantastic pizza. Would you believe it, we even ran into a Polish couple, originally from Tczew, where Alex goes to school, at the moment. Alex was not amused and did not want reminding of Poland, let alone Tczew. Still the pizza soon made him forget and he was back in the land of the living.

Another beautiful night sail, once again watching the moon rise, although this time over sea. It started as it’s usual orange, then blood red, before turning to a brilliant white and illuminating the sea. The waves reflecting and refracting its majestic light made for an awesome and tranquil scene. Alex wanted to stay up for all this and we laid together staring at the heavens, discussing and exploring constellations. Out the blue he described how to find north using the Ursa Major ( The Plough ) and Polaris, I was impressed. Every few minutes, we would see a shooting star as it skimmed the earths atmosphere. I then asked Alex to momentarily, turn of the navigation lights so as we were in total darkness and showed him a different Universe in the sea below as Aria sliced through the water, disturbing the sea and agitating sea plankton making them sparkle like little stars and sometimes in larger pools of light.

Alex eventually retired and Massimo and myself started our night watch. It was 0200 as we approached Marettimo. Massimo had already planned to anchor off the South East corner of the island, in a bay called Conca. We arrived there at 0300 and edged our way in, but in my opinion it was unsuitable. Firstly there was swell and secondly there was no way of knowing what the seabed was like, it also looked pretty exposed. So I suggested we head for the small and only village and harbour of the island, located on the mid eastern side of the island.

As we approached and then entered our strange new home, it seemed completely different to photograph we had studied. No berthing pontoons to be seen, we later found out these are seasonal and removed for the winter months. As we edged closer to the beautifully and delicately illuminated village I decided the only option was to reverse onto the harbour wall, as pulling alongside was impossible due to one foot protruding concrete just above sea level. So we motored out some 50 metres dropped anchor and started reserving toward the harbour wall whilst letting out chain. We aimed for a spot where two sets of stone stairs dropped to form a one metre platform and this is where Massimo stepped of and I then threw him one of our stern lines, which he secured to one of the bollards on top of the harbour wall. We were successfully and safely in. After securing our other stern line, we briefly explored our location and situation, and decided to stay. We made Aria secure and retired for the night.

Alex and I awoke are 0830 and went on deck and then onto the harbour wall to briefly access and view our new surroundings. Everything looked so different to the night entry we had performed a few hours earlier, as if transformed and repainted by glorious sunlight. Quaint little white houses with blue shutters peppered the skirt of the harbour and soaring terrain towered above the only village.

After a leisurely breakfast on deck we decided to take a walk up towards the “Casa Romane” some Roman garrison buildings, well worth a visit. There is also a small Byzinetine church which is open to the public together with a small calling to prayers bell outside.

It’s a really pleasant and easy walk up to the ruins and even more pleasant coming back down through wooded pines and almost African style forna.

There are 18kms of walking trails on the island, including a summit trail and one to the castle. Apparently, there are many caves accessible from the sea, but we didn’t have the time to explore these. You could literally spend a week on this island and still have places to discover.

On our decent we saw donkeys and much flora and fauna specific to the island.

When back on Aria, we had a brief rest before heading out for the evening to a local restaurant. In the winter months you have to call early and they I’ll open and cook specifically for you. Menus are limited to pasta and sea foods and depend very much upon the catch of the day. As we walked along the quayside, we passed groups of locals fishing for squid and many with much success and wondered if this is what would be on the menu tonight.

Squid caught in the harbour, metres from Aria.