East coast of Sardinia

Well the wind has certainly picked up, 25 kts to be precise. But we’re not in a hurry and decided to deploy the smaller Genoa. Even with this sail pattern we are sailing between 5.5 and 6.5 kts. The waves and wind are from behind us, the south, and probably about 1 to 1.5 metres in height.

Came across an approaching Passenger ferry, heading for Cagliari, as we are the stand on vessel, I gave them a call on channel 16 and informed him of our intentions. He very politely replied and turned to starboard, giving us a wide berth.

Nothing much else to report as we sail north. Edward prepared a great lunch of aniseed sausages, salad and potatoes. Extremely delicious. Edward went down for a nap and now it’s my turn. It’s 1400 and we’ve been at sea for 24 hours and covered 114 nm.

1600

Our predict wind model predicted high winds, but not as high as this. 40 kt winds and 2 to 3 metre waves. Not very pleasant and some of the waves tower above us as we sit or even stand in the cockpit. The usual discussion ensures about whether to divert or not. If we set a course to Olbia, then we would have to gybe and the wind and waves would be more on our beam, which is not good. Our present course seems safe and the wind is predicted to calm down by 2100 tonight.

In the midst of all this we had a huge bite on our fishing line and found it impossible to stop the line reeling out. Eventually it stopped, but only because whatever was on there got away, together with the lure.

2000

There was a moment there when I thought the wind was diminishing, but no, it’s piped up again to 35 plus kts. Another hour to go and we will see if it a baits as promised. Let’s hope so, I don’t think Ed I’ll manage another 22 hours of this. The sun is rapidly setting in the west, let’s see what the evening brings.

0001

My watch started at midnight and due to the rolling and often sharp, jerky movement of Arctura, I didn’t get much sleep. Coming on deck, I could feel the 2 to 3 metre waves pound Arctura from her starboard aft. Pitching her left and then right. Not a very pleasant movement and whilst bearable on deck, amplified ten fold below. Anyway we’re sailing, the wind is still southerly between 24 and 35 kts and we are getting closer to Elba at a rate of 6 kts. Distance to go around 84 nms.

No other vessels in our vicinity, at least not within 12 miles. Spotting a vessel at 12 miles gives us approximately 20 to 30 minutes before she is upon us and we will see a big tanker, well before she she’s us, if at all. So a sharp visual lookout and AIS and radar is essential. Well, that’s why we have a watch system.

0600

By the time I got onto my 6 o’clock watch the wind had calmed somewhat to just under 20 kts. Normally 20kts would be touch and go weather back in the Solent, but after a night of 35 kts plus winds, 20 kts feels like a sea breeze. The sea has also calmed a little and at lest the 2 to 3 metre waves have gone, but replaced with a choppy sea. But hey, this is luxury. We are 12 miles south of the island of Monte Christo. Apparently, an island keeper and his wife are the only inhabitants and visitors only welcomed with a professional guide. 50 odd miles to run to the welcoming ams of Elba.

0730

Amazingly, the wind drop to nothing and on goes the iron maiden, for the first time in 212 miles. Not a bad run under sail alone.

0930

As we motored up towards Isola Di MonteCristo we were greeted by a pod of dolphins. They played wonderfully in Arctura‘s bow wave and as we greeted then with a chorus of hellos, they turned as if to return the greeting. I’m positive they can hear us, as each time we sang hello, they turned to show their eyes and white under-half.

We’ve now set our final course, for the eastern edge of Elba and we will hopefully find a space in Portoferraio.

A new season in Sardinia

Due to several unforeseen circumstance our planed trip for the latter part of 2018 was cancelled, but both Edward and I are back with added vigour for the beginning of our 2019 adventure on Arctura in and around Sardinia and beyond, we hope.

My day, as usual, started of with a 0330 start to finish packing and prepare the house for my absence. The can taxi arrived promptly at 0530 and set of for Gatwick and the beginning of new adventure.

Wonderful skies over Gatwick prior to departure

Linear cloud patterns over France

I was going to take a taxi from the Cagliari airport to the marina, but upon my arrival in Cagliari and just as I was collecting my hold baggage, I received a call from Massimo, stating that he was at the airport, picking up other friends, and invited me to a lift and lunch at his and Marta’s, joined by their friends and Edward.

Melted and greeted at Cagliari airport with Massimo and Arba

We had a wonderfully prepared lunch of Tagliatelle Bolognese prepared by Massimo and shared with Marta, Nikoleta, Edward, Arba and myself. Downed with a fine bottle of red and finished of with pastries and Grappa.

From left to right – Nikoleta, Edward, Marco, me and Arba at Marta and Massimo’s

Back to Arctura and then to the supermarket for provisioning. We found a new one, which is only 1.4 kms from the Marina and easily accessible via a cycle/walking route, although this time we got a lift with Nikoleta and Marco. The address is Vialle del Poetta. They probably deliver also, but we haven’t tried yet. So, provisioned up for the next few days, we had a quick rest before going out for a pizza with our friends.

We were going to go to our favorite, basic, cheap and cheerful place, Pizzeria Da Paolo on Viale Armando Diaz 62, but were unfortunately out voted, and ended up at LolLove Pizzeria, which was in our opinion below average, Hey Ho. Nether the less, a good time was had by all.

Arba – choosing examining the menu

Anchovies, Caper and black Olive pizza
Marco and Massimo at the pizza restaurant

Hurst on Honolee

Another early morning start, this time setting up at 0530 and then making my way from Esher to Yaga, in Southampton, before heading to Sway to meet Warren on the farm.

Warren and I headed out of Lymington and out into the Solent, slipping lines at 1030. With a west going tide, we headed out through Hurst and toward Christchurch Bay. Sails raised almost immediately, I might add?.

We sailed through Hurst and towards the N E Shingles cardinal mark and then tacked towards North Head lateral mark through the North channel.

After Heavy to, we sailed further west and then turned south towards the safe water mark and through the Neddles channel, Hurst and back to Honolee’s base of Lymington. A final perfect mooring procedure, by Warren, in relatively high winds made the day. And all this completed with a fine Indian meal in Milford on sea with Wanda and Warren.

Interesting cloud formation

The Needles light house

Warren at the helm

Our route

Back to Cowes

We were going to stay in Bembridge another day, but because I’m on a drying mooring now in Southampton, I have to time my return to coincide with high water. So rather than make a made rush on Monday, I decided to break the trip in two and stop in Cowes, on the Isle of Wight.

One last tender ride with Alex, this time up stream, and then back to Yaga.

We slipped lines at 1130 ands as we passed all the rafted yachts, kept being asked how much we draw. I think everyone was concerned that we were leaving too early and wouldn’t make it out. But we had no issues and one has to trust the information one has to hand, needless to say, the rafted fleet, started following us out.

We sailed towards the forts and then westwards towards Cowes, again in glorious sunshine.

Alex at the helm
One of the forts, now turned into a hotel and restaurant
A great discovery in East Cowes – “Prego” a fantastic Italian restaurant with great service and better food. The Risotto was to die for.
Alex on Yaga in East Cowes marina
What, Spaghetti again. Something he obviously doesn’t get in Poland ☹️

Playing on the beach in West Cowes overlook Southampton Water

Pirate Alex at the Island Sailing Club

After a visit to the beach we visited Island Sailing Club for a quick drink and spectacular views of Cowes, the Solent and Portsmouth in the distance.

Back to Southampton

All good thing come to an end and we had to set sail back to Southampton. After a leisurely start we prepared Yaga for the short hop across the Solent and back to Southampton. We slipped lines at 1020 and Nick reversed Yaga out of her berth in the most professional of manoeuvres, must be the benefits of having such a good instructor ?⛵️.

Sail went up immediatelly and we sailed slowly, but surely out of East Cowes marina an up the river Medina, only putting the engine on to cross the chain ferry.

The sail back was fantastic and the latter part was complted under sail alone and all the way to our berth at Quay Side.

After putting Yaga to bed, we completed our four day adventure with a fantastic meal at Banana Wharf.

What a fantastic four days, with the best of friends and a truely wonderful son.

A fantastic final meal at Banana Wharf after the most four days sailing in the Solent with great friends and a beautiful growing Son.

Sailing to Beaulieu

An early morning start, leaving at 0630, to get to Yaga for a timed departure, on a rising tide and our sail to our first port of call, Beaulieu.

We are joined by our neighbours, Kate and Nick, for a four day extravaganza encompassing Beaulieu, Bembridge, Cowes and finally Southampton.

We slipped lines at 1035 and motored into Southampton Water and after a combination of motor sailing and sailing, and then event entered the beautiful Beaulieu River and made our way upstream to Bucklers Hard and our berth for the night.

After mooring up an a light salad lunch, we made our way on foot to the village of Beaulieu, some two miles upstream.

It’s that way Daddy
Does this help with the sail-trim Daddy
Wonderful views on the walk to Beaulieu village

After enjoying the sights of Beaulieu village, we headed back to Bucklers Hard and our evening meal in the Master Builders’s pub and gardens. Again, followed by football and almost loss of said ball, but this time rescued by Nick.

The view from the Master Builder

Moonrise over Bucklers Hard

A Journey’s End

Each journey must come to and end and this one has drawn to a close. Although are final destination was meant to be Cagliari, due to other commitments and unsettled weather we complete our journey in Palermo. Massimo will continue the journey to Cagliari when weather permits. Even so, we did well on our voyage which started on the 31st of March and ended with our arrival in Palermo on the 8th of April.

A wonderful experience of sailing, visiting new places, culinary delights and above all friendship. Another set of memories stored and never to be forgotten adding to the wealth of ones I already have. Thank you to all the crew and Capitano Massimo, who made it possible and a really relaxed and safe passage.

THE CREW

Capitano Massimo
First Mate Marta
Our Chef Stefano
Instructor Ricardo
The Real Boss Arba

8 days of sailing and 521 nautical miles, here is a brief synopsis of our trip and places visited

31st of March – Start of voyage from Vieste

2nd of April – First port of call to stretch legs and refuel – Santa Maria de Leuca

3rd of April – Milazzo

4th of April – Vulcano

5th April – Lipari

7th April – Salina

7th April – Filicudi

8th April – Palermo

Palermo

Waking up in Palermo in a lovely marina, ” Si. Ti. Mar Palermo@, only €45 per night for a 46 footer. We walked into town for breakfast, which soon became a walk through the most delightful parts of Palermo including the Cathedral, Churches, Monuments and parks.

We visited , Ballaro market where we bought all our ingredients for spaghetti vongole, which we will have this evening. We stopped in a basic eatery for lunch of seafoods, squids, sardines, anchovies and all the trimmings. All at local prices, but 5 star quality.

I have certainly seem Palermo in a very different light to when I first visited a year ago. Such a vibrant city, full of life and culture and energy. Wonderful and certainly worth a visit for a few days.

Here are some photos and video of our experience