So, we have woken up in true paradise and quickly went ashore, much to Arba’s delight. A short walk up the single track road and we arrived at the hotel, where I had been with Edward and Elaine some 6 weeks ago.

I introduced Alex, Massimo and Marta to Chrsitana, a member of the hotel staff, whom I met here last time. She remembered me and was happy that we all returned. We sat by the hotel bay and indulged in coffee, Granita’s and the odd beer, and savoured paradise.

On the way back to Arya,we turned right, off the single track right road and into the most wonderful beach and bay you could ever imagine. As there are no private beaches on this island we headed down to the golden sands and clear waters of what is truly the most wonderful bay I have ever had the pleasure of swimming in. TRUE PARADISE.

Alex, Marta Massimo teaching Arba how to swim

The Bay was fantastic and so inviting, that we just couldn’t get out,and it was with sad heart that we had to leave and get back to Arya and onto our final and furthest destination of our trip, BoniFacio.

Unfortunately, we had to engine all the way, but it was only 8nms and we arrived to the wonderful entrance of the gorge. By 1630 we were moored up and relaxing on deck.

Tuesday the 2nd of July 2019

After the night sail we decided to take a quick breakfast stop at the wonderful island of Tavolara, there was only one other yacht anchored nearby and as we ate our breakfast an sea plane few overhead. A few minutes later, we saw it again, this time on a final approach and landed a few hundred metres away. Another first, as I’ve never seen a sea landing in real life. After a quick swim for Marta we headed to the south western tip of Tavolara and then across the bay of Olbia. Being here twice before, it was now familiar territory and as the wind picked up we raised our sails and headed onto our next destination, Cavallo.

We had a steady wind and as we entered the beautiful waters of The Maddalena islands, I decided to take us into Cala Coticcio, more commonly referred to as Tahiti beach, because of it’s white sands and turquoise waters. Although, having said that I have seen clearer waters and whiter beaches elsewhere in this area.

I have been her several times before, but in April or May, this time as we sailed in the Cala was full of tenders, zodiacs, motor boats and yachts, not to mention large tourist boats, brining in even more tourists. We decided to stop for a while anyway. There was a free mooring buoy, which I decided to pick up, a first for Massimo. We had a swim amongst the fish, which only just managed to out number the tourists.

So, refreshed, but somewhat disappointed, with the number of yachts and tourists, and not being able to get onto the beach for lack of space, we pressed on and had a wonderful sail all the way to the entrance of Cala Di Zeri, of the island of Cavallo, arriving 2000 . We anchored in the eastern part of the Cala in 4.5 metres. We readied the tender and made our way to the beach for an evening swim in the warm waters of bay.

A long day, and now a restful night with dinner under the stars. What a difference to Tahiti, quite and peaceful.

The morning of the 1st of July was spent provisioning. Massimo and I went to get gas, groceries and some flippers for moi, whilst Marta and Alex stayed on Arya and filled water tanks and cleaned inside and out. I took my huge canvas trolley suitcase, which has proved useful, for such provisioning trips, on multitude of occasions. This time it was full to the brim, with gas bottle, 12 litres of water, tinned foods, fresh meats, fruit and vegetables and also the now essential mask and flippers.

Once back on Arya, I completed the cold Polish Borsch, which I had prepared several days earlier. A welcomed cold soup in these high temperatures. I also managed to get a quick chat in with Roman and Rachel, such lovely people, and I was sorry not to have been able to spend more time with them, hopefully, they’ll be another time.

We slipped lines just before 1500 and headed up the coast and almost immediately anchored just 0.4nm north of Pedra Longa. We stayed an hour and I tried my new mask and flippers and as usual Alex shot off in search of sea snakes and fish.

Heading north, but only a cable or two off shore, we passed fantastic sights of shear cliff faces, darting out of the sea and rises vertically several hundred metres. We passed Cala Goloritze, Mariolu, Grotto Del Fico, the pools of Venus and many others, before finally anchoring for dinner at Cala Sisine. I had visited all these places a company of months earlier, but by a tourist pleasure boat, and seeing it from a yacht showed it through a different perspective.

Marta made a wonderful pesto and tomatoes pasta, which was devoured in minutes, primarily by Alex. Then we set sail in a north easterly direction, towards Capo Comino and then northwards towards the Maddalena islands.

The sun disappeared behind the towering mountains and the stars came out in all their glory. A fantastic view of the Milky Way and I reminisced my viewing of this awesome sight of our Galaxy, when, as a child, I visited my grandparents in the Cotswolds. I clearly recall it being brighter then, so either my eyesight is going or we are polluting our planet so quickly, that within 55 years this wondrous sight has somewhat diminished. That said, this beautiful night sky was accompanied by the most glorious smell of Sardinia fauna, quite incredible and overpowering, even 2 nms off shore. Alex was in awe of the sights of the Milky Way and the millions of stars within our galaxy.

It’s now 0345 and we have Capo Comino on our beam and I can see the red and green entrance lateral marks of Caletta in the distance. So I continue my watch and wait for the dawn and what that brings.

It’s tempting to stop at all these lovely beaches and anchorages on our northward journey, especially in the fine settled weather we are having, with minimal swell. But today, we set our objective as Santa Maria Navarrese, for few reason.

One. We need to dispose of Rubish

Two. We need to refill our water tanks

Three. Provision

Four. We need to make some headway north and stop being distracted by beautiful anchorages along the way.

Five. Take advantage of the last day of the month and reduced rates of €50 per night, reduced to €45 for C A Members.

So we weighed anchor at 12 and headed north in a 7 to 10 kts south easterly. Even though we had our sights set for the marina, we were drawn like magnets to a couple of anchorages for a swim. The final one was the small rocky Isola dell’Ogliastra only 1 nm south east of Santa Maria Navarrese marina..

We anchorages some 100 metres from the rocky shore, not because of any restriction, but because it was quite busy with yachts and other pleasure craft. So we snorkels up and swan ashore. It was Alex’s first time, with mask and snorkel and he was a natural. He beat us all to the rocky outcrop and immediately started exploring. This boy has not fear of water, its amazing how he just goes of and swims endlessly. Alex was lucky enough to see an Moray eel, unfortunately, he didn’t have the Go Pro to hand to film it, but by all accounts it was a large beast, hiding in the rocks.

After a few hours on the rocky outcrop, we headed for the marina. After a quick splash down, crew not yacht, I met my Swiss friends from the last visit. Roman, Rachel and their children Louis and Morris. They were happy and surprised to see me and we chatted and caught up on adventures.

A pizza beckoned, and we soon made our way to a fantastic restaurant by the beach, some 1.5 kms from the marina, “Ristorante e Pizzeria Tancau”. Delicious pizzas, deserts and views.

So the first jobs of then day was coffee, breakfast followed quickly by kedge anchor recovery. This was carried out by deploying the tender, with Massimo on board, and literally pulling the anchor out, which would have been o.k. If it wasn’t lodge under the only rock in the vicinity. Still job done and an exhausted, but jubilant Massimo returns to Arya.

So we weighed anchor at 1020 and headed north, this time under engine, as promised wind did not show. about an hour into the trip, Massimo’s eye caught sight of a beach and so after a brief consultation with the crew and also because there was no wind we all decided to head for it and anchor.

We arrived into even more beautiful turquoise waters and anchored in 4 metres and .2 nms off shore. There was no delay, we all immediately dived into the crystal clear waters and swam for about 40 minutes before having the idea to swim the 300 metres to the beach. So Massimo, Alex and myself, headed for the beach and we all arrived safely. Massimo commented

How brave Alex was and after a brief rest we headed back to Arya, which seemed longer than coming to the beach, I think thats always the case, plus we were swimming against a light current and wind. No sooner were we back on Arya, we all decided to head back for the beach, this time with Arba and also to provision with a few things we had forgotten to buy. So I was designated as being in charge of the tender and Arba, whilst Massimo, Marta and Alex swan, but this time with flippers, which Alex really enjoyed. He commented how much easier it was and he is really a sea boy. This is probably due to all the hard work, and pleasure, that i put in, from when he was 2 months old and we went swimming everyday, until he was forcibly removed to Poland, where he does no swimming what so ever?.

After provisioniong and an ice cream on shore, we headed back. I rowed back due to outboard not starting, whislt the others swam. So Alex covered 1.2 kms by swim power?.

Back on board and yet another sunset, this time with ever more spectacular views of the high mountains in land, dawned with exceptional colours. In my opion, being here is better than the Madalena’s. Great scenary with high backdrops as opposed to low lying islands. That said, you must have very settled weather to anchor here, but thats also true of some parts of Madelena.

Eveving completed with another fine pasta dish and beddy byes. we will sleep like lords after a feast.

I managed to get up for the sunrise which although was at 0600 it only appeared over the terrain of Carbonara Bay at 0614 and was caught on camera.

After a breakfast on honey dew melon,bananas, fresh bread and jam we all dived into the crystal clear waters for a swim and splashing fun. Alex was like a fish in water and we couldn’t get him out, he found it that enjoyable, jumping in one time after another and exploring the sea bed and sea life through his goggles.

At 1100 we eventually set sail in a brisk wind of 14 kts and set sails and sailed out of the bay. Rounding Capo Carbonara, we set a northerly course with the wind almost behind us, but allowing us to sail almost all the way, to our unknown destination, which proved to be Cala Murtas. I was here two year ago, with Edward and Paul, when we were shooed away by a military vessel performing parachute aerial drops of either equipment or test weaponry. I would have never have thought then, that I would visit this again, let alone anchor in this open bay. That said, it is exactly what we have done and also set a ketch anchor, that set our bow into the swell and made for an extremely comfortable nigh, with not the slightest movement. Recovery, will prove interesting.

More swimming, with almost 2 hours in the sea and also Alex, Arba and me, venturing to the beach on the tender and having fun the the water playing water polo. Eventually we headed back for Arya, another swim and then relaxing before a wonderful Pasta Bolognese, of which Alex had three portions.

And so the end of another day at sea, so far, marina costs have been zero and our only expenses are food and a tiny bit of fuel.

The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry. Well this was certainly our case. We were meant to leave at 1700, but due to the usual unforeseen circumstances and last minute glitches we finally slipped lines at 1919. Still we have departed upon our voyage of discovery. Our objective is to get as far north as possible, perhaps Bonifacio, and then wend our way back to Cagliari.

Setting sail out of the intense heat of the marina, 36 degrees, we headed out in to a cooler environment of open water, with a delightful and gentle sea breeze. This was enough to allow us to sail for the first 10 nm, at which time the wind dropped to below 3 knts and we motored the remainder.

The conditions on route were perfect, and pulling 4 kts over the calmest of sea was beauty in the making. Alex was in heaven and in his new found element.

Watching the sunset over Caglairi and the western hills of Sardinia was like a dream unfolding. Alex commented how quickly the sun disappeared, and its true, one doesn’t realise how quickly our little earth is moving, until you have a reference point, such as the sun on the horizon.

Night fell and we were rewarded with another miracle of the stars in the heavens. Thousands upon thousands of visible stars appeared and the Milky Way was clearly visible, together with Jupiter and Saturn. We all laid on the fore deck, admiring this free show and spectacle and I for one wondered upon its creation. To top it all we saw a few shooting stars upon the backdrop of the heavens.

You could see the delight in Alex’s eyes as he too pondered these wonders and new experiences filling his mind, hopefully forever. He was in awe and said that this was the best experience ever and would want to stay on yachts and sail the seas. By the way, his now preferred Country has changed for England to Italy.

Before Alex and Marta retired we were serverd a wonderful dinner, of tomatoes spaghetti, under the carpet of the stars, by Massimo. And as a finali, I showed Alex the illuminations of plankton and phosphorescent sea life, creating its own lit Universe, in the sea below.

So with half the crew below and asleep, Massimo and I pressed on for the last hour to anchor in the beautiful bay of Carbonarra, minding out for the other 20 or so yachts that were to be our neighbours for the night. Finally dropping the hook at 0021, we put Arya to rest and then ourselves. An Amazing first day, with a Father proudly looking at his son and the joy and happiness in Alex’s eyes and soul.

So, another early morning start, but today was exceptionally early, with the Taxi from “Road Runners”, turning up nearly an hour early at 0424. Oh well he had to wait whilst Alex got up.

So off to Gatwick South Terminal and onto B.A. electronic check in, which went so smoothly and without event. Past security and headed for a wonderful breakfast at “Wondertree”. Fantastic scrambled eggs with smoked salmon for me and beans on toast for Alex.

We arrived in Cagliari airport bang on time and after switch passing through passport control and getting our bag, we walked out into the airport arrivals to the warmest of greetings from Marta and Arba. Alex took to them both immediately and after a short drive, we were on our new home of the yacht Aria.

Marta and Arba had to leave us, as Marta had some work to do. So Alex and I almost immediately went to the Aquila club/restaurant, for a great horse steak for Alex and the lunch menu for me. A starter, two mains, two desert, 1 litre of sparkling water and a soft drink all for €23.50

Sustenance after the long journey

It’s a hard life, but someone has to do it

After lunch we went back to Aria for a siesta, only being awoken by a visit from Massimo and then to the bar for some light refreshing drinks.

Alex and I then decided to take the bus (PF or PQ ) to Poetto beach. I bus can almost immediately and after 15 minutes we were on the sandy beach of Poetto and in the clear and warm waters. Medium sized rollers made a play in these fantastic water even more special and Alex was in his element and a million miles away from Polakoland. The bus ride back was just as easy and we returned just in time to have a shower in the marina facilities, thus not brining collected sand onto yacht, and for the arrival of Massimo and a welcome to his and Marta’s home and a fine meal of Spaghetti Bolognese. Massimo went out of his way to make this especially for AlexThe evening ended with the usual visit to the ice cream parlour and great view from the summit square overlooking Cagliari. A great first day and one that Alex and I will remember always….