We slipped lines from PortoFerraio at 0700 and motored out into the bay and towards the north east corner of Elba to catch some wind and set a course for the mouth of the river Arno, some 10 miles west of Pisa.

The sail was a combination of sailing and motoring and motor sailing, around half the trip under sail. We weaved our way through anchored cargo ships off the port of Livorno and after this I served up a couple of portion of spaghetti carbonara.

Then a fine sail all the way to the entrance of the river where we put the engine on and dropped sails and started our way towards the entrance and the bar.

Just before the beginning on the fishing nets the depth dropped to 2.6 metres. We were advised by Paulo, the owner of marinanova, that we should keep 20 to 30 metres south of the nets. Once past the first set of nets, the depth rose and stayed at 5.5 metres all the way to the marina, located on the south side of the river.

The marina is standard stern to morning onto a wooden pontoon. However, be careful of the river current flowing downstream as this can reach 3 knots and as us you can be caught out. Once ashore we were warmly greeted by Paulo and give access cards and WiFi codes. Needless to say the WiFi was either very slow and only useable in the marina office/area, or non existent where we were berthed. Also the 3G signal was pretty poor and no 4G at all.

We stayed on board the first night and had a fantastic chicken dish presented by Ed. Waking up the next morning to a quite river mooring was blissful, with swallows flying low across the water and boat picking off insects in full flight.

We made our way to the bus stop which was left out of the marina and on the opposite side of the reload and caught the 0914 bus into Pisa, for a single fare of €3.50. It take approximately 30 minutes to get into the centre of Pisa, and then a 10 minute walk to the tower, through quaint street.

Upon arriving in Pisa, we had our customary coffee and light snack, before making a 10 minute walk toward the tower. When it first came into sight it was quite an incredible structure and the white marble of the tower complimented the lush, green grass around it. We bought our tickets €18 each and were allocated a slot of 1130, which gave us plenty of time to view the cathedral. The walk up the tower gives you an unusual feeling as the stairs first lean this way and then the opposite way. Once at the top, its an unusual queezy feeling and quite disconcerting and I was quite glad to be down on terra ferma.

We then, quite by chance, found an amazing Tuscan restaurant called Galileo on Via San Martino 6/8. Fantastic food, spaghetti vongole, followed by the most amazing steak with green peppercorns sauce. Quite the best steak. All of this and wine at a very reasonable cost. The restaurant was full of local Italians with their friends and families. A GREAT FIND and a must visit.

Then back by bus, to the marina and an early, restful night before our departure the next morning.

Well, last time I was here two years ago, I didn’t think that I would visit again, let alone so soon. Not only that but in the same Marina, “Marina PortoFerraio”.

After we settle Arctura into her berth we made our way to the office to say hello and pay our dues of €55 per night, the staff are extremely friendly and welcoming. The marina is typical Mediterranean stern to moorings with electricity and water. The WiFi codes provided worked, but were pretty slow and kept disconnecting so we just used our 4g network.

Although we have been here before, we asked the marina staff for some culinary recommendations ( i.e. Where the locals eat ? ). We were recommended a couple of restaurants that we hadn’t frequented last time. One of these was a pizza place called “Pizzeria la Cisterna, via dell Conserve” One of the best pizzas I’ve had and very reasonably priced.

Elba is the largest of the Tuscan islands and was the exiled home of Napoleon Bonaparte. It is steeped with history and the city of Portofarraio has everything a visiting yacht and could need, from hundreds of resturants, supermarkets, fishing shops,chanderlries

After a very restful night on Arctura in the marina we ventured out for an afternoon lunch in a restaurant that we had requested a year ago. It’s run by an English lady call Fiona. She settled here over 18 years ago and married a local Meddician. The food was excellent and although no Vongole on the menu, we were talked into having Sconciglio Linguini, a small sea snail, as picture in one of the photos below. The restraint is called Teatro, located in Via del Carmine.

After lunch we ventured into town for a few bits and pieces for boat repairs, primarily screws for the on board toilet, which got blocked due to a piece of plastic coming loose from the toilet seta and getting suck into the blades of the pump. A quick trip to our local fishing supply shop and also a haircut for Ed at one of the few barbers on Elba, where appointments are not necessary.

We choose our second recommenced restaurant for an evening meal, “Tratoria L Barca delle Matte”, Piazza Della Republican. A great find, limited menu ,but the food was absolutely excellent, especially the sworedfish with capers.

Another restful nigh and early morning start and we slipped lines dead on 0700 for a 60nm journey to MarinaNova in the river Arno, with a view to visiting Pisa.

As we approached Bastia, we decided to take the tender off its Davies and put in on the foredeck. Once done, we set up Arctura for our energy to Vieux Port Bastia. The marina entrance is pretty narrow and even once in space is of a premium. Calling the harbour master, who spoke no English, was simply told to moor up on the right. As usual, no one to assist, but evenly someone came out to help as they saw that we were struggling in the cross wind.

Both tired after our night sail, we decided to host the sack for a few hours of well deserved sleep.

The harbour is small but full of restaurants and coffee shops. We were recommended a restaurant called Cote Marine, which was cheap and cheerful. A three course meal for €19.95. An early night and to newer pastures tomorrow. NOT SURE WHAT YET.

We planned to get up at 0800 as we had several jobs to do before we left, and that is what we did. We started out by putting a new anchor roller on,which took no time at all. With the anchor back in place we continued with putting up the gennaker and then Ed washed down Arctura, whilst I made a spag bols for our evening meal. All that was left to do was get new flares, fill the water tanks and put up the spray hood. We were finished by 1200 and decided to delay our planned departure of 1300 by an hour and go for lunch. We headed for the swimming club “Rari Nantes”, which has a fine restaurant. At €10 a head we had a tuna pasta starter, grilled skewered sausage with potatoes and salad, bread and water. Additional wine was €5, the hole meal a bargain and extremely tasty.

Back to Arctura, and we finally slipped lines at 1405 and made our way out of Marina St. Elmo. Within 5 minutes we were sailing. Out of the harbour for a mile and then tacked toward Vilasinius about 20 miles toward the east. Pulling over 7 knots we made great headway close hauled, but very comfortable in a 15 knot wind.

We then turned to port and with the wind evermore behind us, made our way through the island of Cavoli and Sardinia and set a course for Elba. Changing our sail pattern often from goose winging to head sail alone, we finally deployed the genaker alone in the light wind from the south and almost directly behind us. We also had fun experimenting with the boom brake, that came with Arctura, but was never deployed. A very useful piece of kit, getting rid of the need for complicated gybe preventers.

The boom brake proved totally efficient in the tests we put it through and certainly did the job. An invaluable piece of safety kit.

We had our spag bols at 2000 and at 2100 settled into our 3 hour watch system.

Thee moon is a 13% waxing crescent, but even this lights up the sea sufficiently, but it’ll set just before midnight. Stars are everywhere and wonderful phosphorescence from algae and jellyfish sparkle in our wake.

7th May 2019 – 0300

Up for my next 3 hour shift. Ed had nothing major to report. We can now clearly see the light from the Arbatax light house some 20 miles away. It has a range of 26 miles, 2 white flashes every 10 seconds. Sky is still clear and the stars look more beautiful than ever and at this hour joined by Jupiter and Saturn. Venus should rise at 0514, so will keep an eye open for her. The wind has picked up again and we are sailing in a southerly and Arctura is pulling 4 kts as we make our way northwards parallel to the coast and about 2 miles from shore.

0415

Wind has backed by about 20 degrees and the gennaker was collapsing. Ed came up from his slumber and we rolled away the gennaker and deployed the small Genoa, but this time on the port side to accommodate for the shift in wind. It has also piped up to 15kts and is forecast to increase further, so we’ll keep this one flying.

0430

Ed gone back to his bunk and we’re now pulling over 4 kts with our small Genoa. Waiting for the sun to rise in a couple of hours.

0545

Half an hour before sunrise and it’s already bright with the red sky in the distance we await the sun and it’s warmth.

Nearly sunrise, but not quite

And finally sunrise 0615

0630

I’m off to my bunk now for a quick kip before breakfast

Well the wind has certainly picked up, 25 kts to be precise. But we’re not in a hurry and decided to deploy the smaller Genoa. Even with this sail pattern we are sailing between 5.5 and 6.5 kts. The waves and wind are from behind us, the south, and probably about 1 to 1.5 metres in height.

Came across an approaching Passenger ferry, heading for Cagliari, as we are the stand on vessel, I gave them a call on channel 16 and informed him of our intentions. He very politely replied and turned to starboard, giving us a wide berth.

Nothing much else to report as we sail north. Edward prepared a great lunch of aniseed sausages, salad and potatoes. Extremely delicious. Edward went down for a nap and now it’s my turn. It’s 1400 and we’ve been at sea for 24 hours and covered 114 nm.

1600

Our predict wind model predicted high winds, but not as high as this. 40 kt winds and 2 to 3 metre waves. Not very pleasant and some of the waves tower above us as we sit or even stand in the cockpit. The usual discussion ensures about whether to divert or not. If we set a course to Olbia, then we would have to gybe and the wind and waves would be more on our beam, which is not good. Our present course seems safe and the wind is predicted to calm down by 2100 tonight.

In the midst of all this we had a huge bite on our fishing line and found it impossible to stop the line reeling out. Eventually it stopped, but only because whatever was on there got away, together with the lure.

2000

There was a moment there when I thought the wind was diminishing, but no, it’s piped up again to 35 plus kts. Another hour to go and we will see if it a baits as promised. Let’s hope so, I don’t think Ed I’ll manage another 22 hours of this. The sun is rapidly setting in the west, let’s see what the evening brings.

0001

My watch started at midnight and due to the rolling and often sharp, jerky movement of Arctura, I didn’t get much sleep. Coming on deck, I could feel the 2 to 3 metre waves pound Arctura from her starboard aft. Pitching her left and then right. Not a very pleasant movement and whilst bearable on deck, amplified ten fold below. Anyway we’re sailing, the wind is still southerly between 24 and 35 kts and we are getting closer to Elba at a rate of 6 kts. Distance to go around 84 nms.

No other vessels in our vicinity, at least not within 12 miles. Spotting a vessel at 12 miles gives us approximately 20 to 30 minutes before she is upon us and we will see a big tanker, well before she she’s us, if at all. So a sharp visual lookout and AIS and radar is essential. Well, that’s why we have a watch system.

0600

By the time I got onto my 6 o’clock watch the wind had calmed somewhat to just under 20 kts. Normally 20kts would be touch and go weather back in the Solent, but after a night of 35 kts plus winds, 20 kts feels like a sea breeze. The sea has also calmed a little and at lest the 2 to 3 metre waves have gone, but replaced with a choppy sea. But hey, this is luxury. We are 12 miles south of the island of Monte Christo. Apparently, an island keeper and his wife are the only inhabitants and visitors only welcomed with a professional guide. 50 odd miles to run to the welcoming ams of Elba.

0730

Amazingly, the wind drop to nothing and on goes the iron maiden, for the first time in 212 miles. Not a bad run under sail alone.

0930

As we motored up towards Isola Di MonteCristo we were greeted by a pod of dolphins. They played wonderfully in Arctura‘s bow wave and as we greeted then with a chorus of hellos, they turned as if to return the greeting. I’m positive they can hear us, as each time we sang hello, they turned to show their eyes and white under-half.

We’ve now set our final course, for the eastern edge of Elba and we will hopefully find a space in Portoferraio.

Due to several unforeseen circumstance our planed trip for the latter part of 2018 was cancelled, but both Edward and I are back with added vigour for the beginning of our 2019 adventure on Arctura in and around Sardinia and beyond, we hope.

My day, as usual, started of with a 0330 start to finish packing and prepare the house for my absence. The can taxi arrived promptly at 0530 and set of for Gatwick and the beginning of new adventure.

I was going to take a taxi from the Cagliari airport to the marina, but upon my arrival in Cagliari and just as I was collecting my hold baggage, I received a call from Massimo, stating that he was at the airport, picking up other friends, and invited me to a lift and lunch at his and Marta’s, joined by their friends and Edward.

We had a wonderfully prepared lunch of Tagliatelle Bolognese prepared by Massimo and shared with Marta, Nikoleta, Edward, Arba and myself. Downed with a fine bottle of red and finished of with pastries and Grappa.

Back to Arctura and then to the supermarket for provisioning. We found a new one, which is only 1.4 kms from the Marina and easily accessible via a cycle/walking route, although this time we got a lift with Nikoleta and Marco. The address is Vialle del Poetta. They probably deliver also, but we haven’t tried yet. So, provisioned up for the next few days, we had a quick rest before going out for a pizza with our friends.

We were going to go to our favorite, basic, cheap and cheerful place, Pizzeria Da Paolo on Viale Armando Diaz 62, but were unfortunately out voted, and ended up at LolLove Pizzeria, which was in our opinion below average, Hey Ho. Nether the less, a good time was had by all.

Arba – choosing examining the menu