We set sail at mid day from Lipari for Botarro, a tiny island 1.5 miles east of Panarea.  We wanted to see the underwater fumaroles which bubbles suplphorous gas from the sea bed. Unfortunately, when we got there we discovered there was nowhere to anchor due to a rocky seabed. We saw one yacht anchored close to shore, so we tried to do the same, but as we approached the shore all we saw was a very rocky seabed and had no intention to attempt to anchor and potentionaly snag and loose our anchor. So we sailed above the fumaroles to see the gas bubbles, but all we sensed was the smell of sulphur.

We then set sail for our overnight anchorage of Caletta die Zimmari. A beautiful anchorage and very sheltered with a couple of yachts for neighbours. Bill even went for a swim, but was soon asking for the bathing ladder to be lowered. Water temperatures are still pretty low this time of year

The next morning we weighed anchor and set sail for Stromboli. We decided to take the western coastal route around Panarea and had amazing views of a barren rocky, cliff faced shore line and then a view of the active volcano Stromboli.

We reached Stromboli early afternoon and headed up the western coast. Our intention was to see “Sciara del Fuoco “ a blackened lava scar running down Stromboli’s northern flank. We were not disappointed, the scar is incredible and we witnessed  gas eruptions and using the binoculars managed to see rock and lava being hurtled into the air. Our intention is to return here at night. We sailed on to our anchorage on the north eastern side of the island. We choose  a spot a hundred metres off Spiaggia di Foggia Vecchia beach. There were several yachts here already and more joined throughout the afternoon.

At around 22:00 we weighed anchor and set off for our night sail to the norther side of the island and hopefully witness some gas eruptions. We were not disappointed and within minutes we were rewarded with excellent views of lava being thrown high into the air and tumbling down the volcanos steep lava inclines. We watched for hours as every 10 or 15 minutes the lava went spurting Ito the night sky followed by large rumbling explosions. A fantastic firework display, but unfortunately our cameras were not adequate enough to take a decent footage of this awesome display of Nature at work.

Elated and entertained we headed back for our original anchorage and for a goods night rest. Tomorrow the Italian mainland.

We left Vulcano weighing anchor at 12:00 and sailed the 4 miles to Lipari. Our home for the night was Porto Pignataro. A very pleasant small marina, with very friendly staff. The facilities here a clean and functional with a pleasant caring environment.

The walk into town is 15 minutes, along a costal road. The town centre is full of tourist, even at the beginning of May. Lipari, seems to be the main setting off point for tourists visiting the other islands. The ferry traffic is enormous and the ports crowed with people setting of with their hiking gear to the island of Stromboli.

Well the day has come and Ed and I are preparing for our ascent of Vulcano.

Vulcano is 501 mtrs high and an active volcano. We were well prepared with climbing boots and back packs containing, food, 2 ltrs of water and some extra wind chill clothing. The clothing proved unnecessary as at 501 mtrs its still pretty hot up there. Bill dropped us off via tender at a small tender pontoon and Ed and I set off.

The walk is tough, but easily manageable and many children and elderly people were seen of the way. We arrived at the crater rim within an hour, had a rest and then proceeded to the summit and a walk around the entire crater rim. A fantastic experience looking down into the crater and walking through spurting sulphur clouds, which bubbled and spurted sulphur to the surface.

Fantstic views and well worth the effort.

We arrived at the sulphurous island of Vulcano at 17:00 and anchored in 3.6 metres of water, approximately 200 metres from the black pumice beach.  The bay we decided on was Porto di Ponente, seen above. This bay is to the North East side of the island, with the main ferry port literally the other side. The holding was good and we found no problem anchoring at our first attempt. Wonderful views of Vulcano, with its steaming sulphurous vents. There is however no smell of sulphur in this bay, this is left for the opposite bay, where the mud baths lie.

And so we settled for the night, which was comfortable with minimal rocking, even though we were beam on for part of the night.

The plan was to concur Vulcano the next day.

Our first day in Capo d’Orlando was spent cleaning Arctura and getting the shore lines ready for the forthcoming storm. We’ll be here for a few days, probably until Saturday as it’s to windy to go the the Aeolian island and do some anchoring, which is our intention. Winds in the marina hit 42 knots and perhaps more when the log wasn’t recording.

Just after 1400 we ventured to the Marina office and met the very charming Laura who helped us with local information and car hire companies etc.

We then walked a few hundred yards to “Ristorante Villa Bagnoli di Nibali Giuseppe”. A very nice local place and we were presented with a fantastic seafood starter, a swordfish steak and chocolate desert.

Seafood starter

Something Chocolate Again