We left our Jetty at 0530 as planned and weighed anchor only to find a rock being pulled with it. It was the six we of a football, when we tried to remove it it sparkled with phosphorescent lights from creatures that were attached to it. As it was still dark we could see their glow very clearly. Rock dislodged we stowed the anchor and motored out of the bay and into open water and a wonderful dawn and a new day.
We engined, motor sailed and sailed toward Palermo, a 65 mile journey that we must do today to miss bad weather and catch flights.
As we approached we saw huge rain squalls over Palermo, fortunately we missed them, being a few miles out. As we arrived at this busy port, the sun was shining and large cruise ship was leaving through the entrance.
Rain Squalls over Palermo
Cruise ship leaving as we were entering the Port of Palermo
After arriving in the U.K. Alex and I went through the usual rituals of catching up on the usual and normal things in life, that unfortunately he doesn’t get in Poland. That being cycling, swimming and badminton. I must say that he’s a champion fighter at badminton and won all the matches. No photos as I’m embarrassed with my defeat.
We then planned a trip to Lymington, to see Uncle Warren, and help put back his repaired sail cover onto Honolee.
Uncle Warren looking pensively at the grilled sardines. Notice the beers already been consumed.
Lunch was provided by Uncle Warren in a fantastic restaurant at Brockenhurst station, “Enzee Ristorante”. Then a quick trip to Yaga, on her new mooring of Quay Side marina on the River Itchin, to tidy up for our Easter adventure.
After a wonderful day and night at Bucklers Hards Alex had his customary three “Minute Steak” breakfast and we prepared Yaga for our journey to Bembridge. We slipped lines at 0925 and set sails immediately.
Sunrise over Bucklers Hard
It was delightful sailing out of Bucklers Hard under Gods own power and sailing upstream along the Beaulieu River and into the Solent.
A pleasant sail in glorious sunshine passing Cowes, Osbourne Bay, Osbourne House, Wooten Creek, Ryde and Portsmouth and then a leisurely entry through the winding buoys and into Duvers marina and onto a finger pontoon, mooring up at 1345. The marina was absolutely full, with yachts rafting 5 to 6 in places.
We had the foresight to book “Baywatch on the Beach” for 1815, but prior to that we took the tender out for a potter to the east side of the entrance and Alex had fun digging in tunnels and playing in the sand and all this in amazing sunshine and 26 degree temperatures.
As Alex wasn’t in the U.K. to enjoy Christmas, my neighbours, Kate and Nick, and I decided to surprise Alex with a mixture of Christmas and Easter. We name this day Eastmas. Whilst Alex and I were out swimming, Kate and Nick went to work in preparing the Christmas tree, decorations and off course the Eastmas egg hunt.
Alex was delighted and surprised when he got home to find a trail of Easter bunny footprints leading to clues and ultimately chocolate eggs.
We had a wonderful Christmas lunch of turkey breast with all the trimmings. Lots of fun and laughter followed by the customary football match in the back garden, only stopped by the loss of the ball into the bramble, by yours truly.
Great fun and a big thank you to our very good friends Kate and Nick, who are now very much part of Alex’s life and like family.
Alex, having found one of the eggsEastmas fun with Kate and Nick – Turkey with all the trimmings – even had crackers
0730, wind has obviously died down, as I was awoken by the start of the engine, just in time for my next watch at 0800. Coming up to wonderful sunshine and a calm but rolly sea. It was nice to have the suns rays on me again and the warmth permeated my clothing. Alex joined me at 0835, full of joy and happiness one can only get at sea, or is it because he’s with Daddy, perhaps both.
Sunrise mid Mediterranean
Scrambled eggs with pancetta were the order of the day, requested by his Lordship, Master Alex. A wonderful breakfast, served with fresh coffee, on deck and in glorious sunshine, was the start to our second day at sea. It’s the most wonderful feeling waking up and being at sea, miles away from the hustle and bustle, no internet, no phone signal, just three men and a dog.
Joyful Alex with appleMe explaining something our another
We were alternating between engine and sail as the wind died down in belts of 15 minutes, and the picked up again for an hour. It was in this 15 minute lull that the engine splutters and eventually died. Not to worry, our captain and fantastic mechanic, soon Thad the issue resolved. A blocked fuel filter. Once cleaned the engine purred into life again, but by then the ind had picked up and so off it went again, this time intentionally.
Alex was in seventh heaven, not one murmur about not having internet access. Simply enjoying the new world he had discovered. Exploring the boat, trimming sails, looking out, he was a true, participating member of the crew.
We hogged too at 1345 for a lunch of steak and potatoes, kindly prepared by Massimo. It was amazing eating in the warmth of the midday sun, with not a soul in sight, except for those on board.
As we made way again, we were rewarded with our first visit of a pod of dolphins. Alex had spotted them and shouted down to the rest of the crew. We watched them play with the bow wave and they stayed with us for 10 minutes, before darting off and continuing their journey.
A visit at sea from lour friendly dolphins
I went below for a kip for an hour or so and on my return discovered that Alex had another two visits from dolphins, one of which was twenty strong and with a infant. He also averted a potential disaster, by spotting a large lobster pot, directly on our route and only avoided by quick action from Alex and then Massimo. What it was doing in 800 metres of water, God only knows, perhaps it had become adrift, by another poor vessel cutting its line. I wasn’t privy to all this, so can only speculate.
Alex and Arba on watchSunset, on our second day at sea
We left Salina and set sail for the island of Filicudi some 15 miles away.
The wind had picked up to a modest 14 kts and we sailed to within 6 miles when the wind dropped and we then motored the rest of the way.
Arriving, we found a pretty old and battered jetty to which we anchor moored. This is the first time we tried this and it seemed pretty straight forward reversing whilst laying out the anchor chain’t and then attaching stern lines to the jetty.
At about 1800 and took a walk to the town about 1.5 kts away, unfortunately all up hill and about a third of the way up the volcano. We found a bar/restaurant which we entered through a door and it was empty, that included the owners and or staff. We waited 5 minutes and after calling out several times decided to leave. We could have helped ourselves to the many bottles of wines and spirits on display as the place was totally deserted.
In the fading light we made our way down a steep walkway/path and back to Arya and a wonderful risotto prepared by Stefano.
The island is pretty sparsely populated, but worth a visit in calm weather, for pleasant walks and fantastic views.
Early to bed tonight as we have a 0600 start tomorrow for Palermo.
Up at the crack of dawn, well 0700 actually, and set about preparing Arya for our next leg. Today we are setting sail for Salina, for a lunch time stop, and then onto Filicudi.
We arrived at Salina at 1100, after mainly sailing the 6 or so miles. A warm welcome, from the local and when we radioed ahead to ask for berthing instructions and prices for a short stay, were warmly surprised that there was no charge.
The island is wonderfully quite and at the time of our visit, absolutely no tourists, a total contrast to Lipari.
Wonderful quaint local shops, restaurants and drinking places. Local children playing the the town square and no iPhones or iPads in sight. A truly wonderful place. I wish we had more time to stay. A great place to distress with wonderful walks, wildlife and fauna.
Sampling the local wine
Local children having a late breakfast
Narrow streets of Salina
Just about to have lunch. MORE LATER……THIS PLACE IS A DEFINITE MUST
After breakfast I took a trip into Lipari on a motor scooter Stefano had hired to drop some washing off to a local launderette and also replenish our food supplies for the next few days. We even managed to negotiate a great price for fish from a local fisherman.
Negotiating with the local fisherman
He even gutted our fish
Later we met up with Marta and Massimo and took a leisurely walk to the old harbour and an Obsidian shop, and purchase a piece for my growing stone collection.
The town is absolutely beautiful, with narrow, charming streets, beautiful churches and full of jewellery and souvenir shops, not to mention many many restaurants. We choose one and treated ourselves to some fantastic pizzas. We then moved onto a patisseries, where I had been the previous year with Ed and Bill and had a cannoli.
Finally a walk back along the shore with greatly views of the bay to do some maintenance on Arya.
This is my second time in Vulcano, but it is still as beautiful as I remember it. The only two differences are the company and the climb up seemed a lot harder this time around. Anyway Marta, Massimo and I managed to make it to the summit and around the entire crater perimeter. Certainly a lot easier descending rather than ascending.
Stefano stayed at ground zero and we joined him on our way down.
We then walked into town and into a lovely restaurant called “La Forgia da Maurizio”, run by an extra friendly Italian, who spent 20 years in Indian. Fantastic food and hospitality. We ordered Pasta Caserecce with Fish and pomodorini and were given free appetisers, obviously help down with the local white wine. In fact the food was so good that we ordered an additional plate of fried anchovies.
Back to Aria on our tender and then we sailed for our overnight destination of Lipari,”Porto Pignataro”. Four tacks and we were in, and just before the rain.
Negotiating with the local fisherman
The old harbour
Lipari as seen from our walk back
