As there is no wind to sail, today we decided to take a bus ride into Sassari, Sardinia’s second largest city. But before we did, we settled up with Frederico, and he very kindly offered us a ride to the bus stop. This put us well ahead of
schedule, but gave us the opportunity to have a relaxed breakfast of cakes and coffee.
Via Catalonga from where we caught the bus
Our bus arrived on time at 1200 at the Via Catalonga bus stop. The return journey cost us €6.20 per person and took just over an hour.
A short 10 minute walk and we were in the old town, which is a stark contrast to the streets to get there en route.
Cattedrale di San Nicola
The old town has a warm feel to it and the stone work on the Catterdrale Di San Nicola, is amazing. There are plenty of nice restaurants and we were again lucky to chose one in the old town called “Spagettoria S’Artea”. The choice paid off, again, not a single tourist in site, strictly Italian, with some beautiful women having lunch to add to the ambiance.
We had a mussel soup to start, followed by a delicious spaghetti Sarda, and finally polished off with Tiramisu. Some wine off course ?
The journey to and from was through olive groves and vineyards, some of which I would like to visit next time.
And so finally the day has come when we plan to sail. Our plan is to sail to Tuarredda or perhaps CarloForte. While we still had the hire car the previous day, we provisioned for our trip, which made the whole job a lot easier.
So, Arctura readied, we slipped lines at 0953 and motored out of the marina, raising the main by the harbour entrance. We motor sailed for a while before deciding to unfurl the genoa. Nothing happened, no movement of the electric motors that unfurl the sails. So Ed went through the usual checks of checking the circuit breakers, but still nothing. Because some maintenance had been done on the chart plotter, which is where the genoa electric run also, we presumed that something had come loose. So we headed back to Sant’Elmo for diagnosis.
Taking apart the wiring, we check for all possibilities. Finally with the multimeter deployed we decided to check the voltages, but we need a good earth. This was achieved by running a cable from the multimeter, at the stern of Arctura, to the batteries in the fore cabin. It was then that Ed noticed that the circuit breaker had not been reset and that this was the nature of the problem. So with a flick of the breakers and 30 minutes reassembling the cables we were underway again.
A cracking sail to Tuarredda and we arrived just before sunset. It took us a couple attempts to set the anchor, but eventually we were in and holding. A pleasant evening with a sausage pasta care of moi.
Sunset at Tuarredda
We then heard the familiar noise of the bilge pump and upon inspection noticed quite a lot of water in the bilges. Ed went straight for the calorifire and the hot water feed was the nature of the leak. Luckily, Ed had some spare hoses and joints and after four hours of work the leak was solved and we were still afloat ?⛵️
Ed repairing the leak on the calorifire
So the day didn’t turn out as planned, but from every situation one learns and adds it to ones wealth of knowledge. That’s sailing for you….
On our second day of having the hire car we decided to take a drive up to Santa Maria Navarrese. I was last here in July with Alex, Massimo and Marta, and off course Arba.
It was Ed’s turn to drive and on our way up I sent a text to Marta and Massimo to see where they were. Coincidently, they were anchored just off Santa Maria Navarrese at a small island called “Isola dell’Ogliastra. After a fe more texts and conversation with Ed, we all decided to meet up and go for the coastal walk that Ed and I had planned to do.
We arrived just after 1200 and met Marta and Massimo, and our Swiss friends, Rachel and Roman. After greeting and friendly exchanges, we made our way to the start of the walk.
A map at the route shows the route, distance and incline. We are on the inner 5km coastal route, marked in white.
Marta told us that the walk was fairly flat an easy. Ed had also checked information about the walk the previous night and concurred, as so we set off.
The walk starts of with a short climb up some step carved into the natural terrain and for the first part is pleasantly undulating, but progressively becomes more challenging with steeper inclines and descents, some quite rugged and rocky. That said, it’s a really pleasant walk, with the prize of fantastic views and a wonderful terraced restaurant at the end.
Happy faces, Marta and Massimo at the start of the walkEd and me starting the walk
Views back to the island opposite Santa Maria NavarreseWWild goats on routePedralonga Longa in the distanceArba enjoying the walk
Enjoying a well deserved lunch on the terrace of “Trattoria Pedralonga Longa”The happy married couple the day before their first wedding anniversary
Sardinian donkey, on our return walk
Although the walk wasn’t as easy as anticipated it was more than pleasure able with stunning sights and the terraced restaurant at the end a fantastic bonus with great, fresh, seafood. We saw many families with young children, so if taken slowly must be o.k. For them too. Arba, certainly enjoyed herself.
We stayed a couple of nights on CarloForte and on the last night found a delightful restaurant, literally just opposite the marina office. As is our now mode operandi when seeking out new restaurants, it was populated with Italians, which is a good rule to observe, to get value for money, great food and ambiance. We had a amazing beef Tonga, followed by tagliatelle vongole, enhanced by a fine bottle of Vermentino.
Our neighbour whilst at CarloForte
The morning of the 15th, we slipped lines at 1000 and set sail fo Mal Di Ventre. A fantastic sail, with speeds exceeding 8kts. We had a massive bite on the fishing rod, so big in fact that the reel reached its limit and whatever was on the end was impossible to pull in. By the time we had slowed that boat down, whatever was on the end had escaped.
Approaching Isola Mal Di Ventre at 8.1 kts
We reached Isola Mal Di Ventre at 1830 and had 30 minutes of light , before the sun set, to find a sandy patch and drop anchor. There are mooring buoys here, but we prefer to use our own hardware. We have been here once before and remember the slightly sulphurous smell approaching the anchorage.
Due to our dinner escaping and taking our lure with it, we were forced to eat the steaks that we had bought before we left for our journey. Ed prepared them beautifully, with a mayonnaise sauce and accompanied the potatoes wedges and salad.
An undulating and yet comfortable night and even Ed managed to get some sleep.
A wonderful bolt hole and perhaps next time we may land and visit the Roman ruins.
The first few days in Sardinia were spent visiting archaeological sites and taking nature walks. We hired a car for £32 for four days, unbelievable bargain. This allowed to venture in land to Barumini. We were here to visit the archeological site of “Su Nuraxi Di Barumini”, an ancient people called the Nuraghe, that inhabited Sardinia 1700 BC. Unbelievable remains of Bronze Age people, with amazing architectural skills. But before we did that we had lunch in a restaurant opposite the site called “Il Cacallinno Della Giara”. A good choice of Mortadella with a side dish of fresh cherry tomatoes. Delicious and very reasonably priced with pleasant service.
Restaurant – Il Cacallinno Della GiaraInterior of Restaurant – Il Cacallinno Della GiaraThis is apparently a foot bath and sauna, or so we were told by our tour guide.The Bronze Age village
Ed in one of the passages in the courtyardsChiesa Parochial of Immacolata in the village of Barumini
Our next plan was to take the coastal road to Villasimius. This meant travelling all the way back to Cagliari and then heading east along the coastal road. The road proved absolutely wonderful along the coast with amazing views of the sea and shore. We passed by many anchorages that we had visited both on Arctura and Arya.
Fantastic views of the anchorages along the coastal road to Villasimius
Spectacular sunsets at Fortezza Vecchia and dusk overlooking Solanas
We arrived in Villasimius in time for the sunset and then started our return towards the setting sun and Cagliari.
A busy busy day on Sunday. Waking at 0300 and driving to Luton for an early morning flight to Gdansk to return Alex to Poland after his brief visit for a hospital appointment. I returned the same day arriving back at Luton at 2100 and a quick drive back to Esher to unpack and pack again for another early morning flight to Sardinia the following day.
The AlpsThe Coast of CorsicaSardinia – Capo Boi and Solanas Beach
The BA flight was on time and with a 160 mph tail wind which meant that we landed a full half hour early. Ed came to the airport by train to welcome me and we took a taxi back to Marina Sant Elmo.
A quick un packing and by 1330 we were in the Club Sportif for lunch. Wonderful to be back and be able to relax and unwind
After a spot of breakfast we weighed anchor and set sail for our next destination of CarloForte, some 34 miles away. We were no sooner out of the anchorage where we set our sails and were wizzing along the coast to our new destination.
We had two bites of our fishing lure, but each time, whatever it was, manage to get away. At over 7 kts, the boat speed was too fast. However, the third time, we struck luck, and managed to slow Arctura down enough to retrieve our evening meal, a splendid Tuna.
The proud fisherman
We arrived at CarloForte at 1600 having sailed the entire way. We stayed in our usual marina “Sifredi” against the rear wall next to the new marina office, €28.50 per night, bargain.
We only spent a day two nights and a whole day in Dieppe, but I for one will definitely come again, as I’m sure will Paul. A wonderful town and much more to discover in and around the surrounding area. So, I’m sure another trip is on the cards.
Early morning Dieppe, Adieu
The Dieppe to New Haven ferrySunrise over Dieppe
The wind forecast for our return journey was clear and sunny with a North Easterly wind between 14 and 22 knts. We slipped lines at 0700 and made our way out of the marina and through the port and into open water. Raising sails once outside the harbour entrance we set our homeward bound course. I drew Pauls attention that the Genoa seemed un tensioned and so we temporarily headed up and adjusted its halyard tension, it looked and performed much better.
Mid Channel helicopter visit and fly by
As we approached the TSS and a fleet of of fishing boats, some rather large, the wind picked up, and we had 26 knts across the deck and 2 metre waves. We were already reefed in and we had a rather exhilarating sail through the fishing fleet. A lot more traffic as we crossed the TSS, than we had on the way to Dieppe. So a lot more valuable practise for Paul.
Paul has a sea water showerApproaching the fishing fleet
After a couple of hours, the wind reduced to between 15 and 18 kts and we had a more comfortable sail all the way back. Managing to have some locally bought chicken in a fresh baguette and fish soup, Pauls share ended up on the galley floor. We managed to get a shower on the way time for when we arrived at Eastbourne.
Just as we approached the entrance to Eastbourne, we noticed a yacht behaving rather strangely very close to the entrance and harbour wall. Eventually, there was a call on CH16 from him that he had engine failure and both Paul and I were going to assist, but were beaten to it by a larger and more powerful local fishing boat that was also close by.
We continued into the lock and towards our berth, turning up at 1845 after having sailed the entire way.
After putting Izzy Wizzy to bed, Paul and I headed for the local Thai, for a well deserved meal and debrief.
A Wonderful 3 days of fun, sailing and great companionship.
After a long sail, we had a leisurely start with a light breakfast of coffee and croissant and a visit to the marina office. The staff are very pleasant and welcoming and at €22 per night a bargain.
Jehan Ango Marina
We walked into the very picturesque town. The town has a warm feel to it and has maintained it own character of older times. Full of Fish mongers, Bakers, Butchers, and dried meat shows, all very specific to France and the French way of life. Both Paul and I felt immediately at ease and welcomed by the residents.
Fish Market near the sea frontHigher class Fishmonger in town
Eglise Saint-Jacques
We made our way through the town and towards the sea front with wonderful long and clean pebble beeches. Unbelievably, there were swimmers in the water. Taking a closer look the majority of them were pensioners exercising and all looking in extremely good conditions. We walked toward the chalk cliffs overhanging the sea shore and as we approached noticed how treacherous they were, with regular rock falls. Apparently, the cliff erode and retreat at leat 1/2 metre per year.
Eroding Chalk Cliffs
We walked back along the beach and towards and along the harbour wall, towards the entrance where we sailed through the evening before. Quite an ominous site, looking down the sea wall to the sea some 10 metres below.
One of several memorial to the fallen allies who landed in Dieppe in 1942Port entrance, with the Port entry lights. These are clearly visible at least 4 miles off shore
The sea wall is full of locals, fishing for their lunch, some successfully with Mackerel in their storage buckets.
As we walked back towards the marina, we came across a multitude of plain, down to earth restaurants, full of locals. Although we didn’t go in, its on the list for our next visit. We choose a restaurant facing the marina and sat outside in the glorious September sunshine, with temperatures of summer. Mussels were the order of the day, one of the regional specialities.
Apart form actually getting up I love early morning starts. Once aboluted and having a strong dark coffee, its time to face the world. For me it the most wonderful feeling when you get onto deck, just before dawn, in the cool crisp early morning air. All is quite and peaceful with only a handful of souls around. There are still a couple of hours until sunrise as we slip lines and head towards the lock for our exit. It’s 0540.
A short 10 minute motor and we are in the lock and waiting for the 6 o’clock opening. Only one other yacht joins us, they are heading for the Solent.
Waiting in the lock with another yacht
Spot on at 6 o’clock , the lock keeper starts the process of letting us out and by 0608 we are through and heading into and across the channel.
Sails raised we mange to sail at 4 kts in the eagling morning light wind. By the time the sun rises the wind drops and on come the engine, it’s 0730.
Optimistic PaulApproaching the shipping lanes
We cross the shipping lanes without event, but a good first experience for Paul, it’s his first Channel crossing.
The wind comes and goes as does the engine and it’s a combination of sailing and motor sailing. Homemade pea soup and Asda wraps and sandwiches on route to sustain us during our 13 hour crossing.
We sight the port entry lights of Dieppe quite some distance off shore and certainly well before the harbour entry lateral lights. 2 nm from Dieppe, we call the port authorities for permission to enter, a requirement as per the Almanac. Permission granted and we continue towards the entrance.
Approaching Dieppe, with port entry lights clearly visibleAt last, the entrance to Dieppe
We enter, through the narrow entrance,on a low tide, with the harbour walls towering at least 12 metres above us. It’s dark again by this time which makes it all the more intriguing and challenging. We head the 1/2 nm through the harbour, before turning right into our destination of “Jehan Ango”. Paul reverses Izzy Wizzy , very professionally into our berth (No 9 ) and we have arrived.
Heading through the harbour and towards the marina
We put Izzy Wizzy to bed and head towards the exit in search of a meal. The harbour wall tower above us and it’s hard work climbing the 45 degrees incline to the secure exit. It’s quite eerie , looking down the many metres from whence we can. The tide is nearly 8 mtrs today and it’s a spring tide.
A 7.7 metre tide makes for a steep walk up the gangwayIzzy Wizzy, it the top right hand corner of the photo
We head for one of the nearest restaurant “Le Sully”, which has a few locals in it and looks good. Oysters as starters , which are good and steak to follow, mine was okay as I asked for it medium, whilst Paul was disappointed with his, which was rare and chewy. Nonetheless, we had a wonderful evening with a nice Muscadet sur Lie, before retiring for the night and a well worth sleep.
Paul and me having a well deserved drink at “Le Sully”Evening Oysters
And so endeth Paul’s first cross Channel crossing.
